Ordinary people's Extra-ordinary resolve

I tried to pen down the weekend after the devastating earth quake on march 11th 2011.
As I was trying to write something after a long long time, I found it difficult to articulate many things.
Sorry if its too long.

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Ordinary people's Extra-ordinary resolve
- 11th March 2011

I grew up hearing a lot of Japanese quality and religiously practised punctuality. When I landed in Japan exactly 10 years back, I was surprised, the stories I heard when I was young, were true in every word and spirit. Its not just the people, but nature as well. The four seasons will take turns with such an accurate timing.

March is usually the fag end of the winter, but in recent years, thanks to all of us all over the world, the climatic changes are too visible in Japan. Last year after 40 years, it snowed heaviliy in Tokyo during April. This year, there were snow falls in the beginning of march.

On March 11th, It was another routine bright friday morning. I as usual was rushing to the meetings. After an unusally long break, I had a meeting in Ibaraki around 1 pm. I finished the morning meeting and rushed to Ueno station at around 10:40 am to take the 11 'o clock train.

At the stroke of 11, Hitachi Super express heading towards Iwate in North eastern Japan started off with its first stop in Mito, followed by Katsuta some 150 KMs from Tokyo. I got off at Sawa and heading towards Sawa factory. Had the routine chat with my engineers and after the usual pleasantries with the purchase dept, the meeting started exactly at 1:00 pm. It went on for about 2 hours and at around 2:46 pm, there was a massive earth quake.

Earth quake is no stranger to Japan. We live with it, day in day out. Usually, it will be the ceiling and the hanging lamps that will show signs of quake. But, this one was different. The first signs were on the floor. And with every passing micro second, it multiplied manifold and the customer started panicking. I told him, that, isn't it usual and it will reside in seconds, isn't it? But, the customer shouted, NO... Its different. RUN... By Telling this, he just rushed outside pulling me along with him. We came out and were shocked to see the cars and the massive truck full of load staggering from side to side. That was when, I realised the gravity of the situation. Immediately, I turned to the building and was schocked to see that, the building started developing cracks and the walls started pulling apart. In the last 10 years, I have never seen such a massive earth quake. Usually, a quake will last for a few seconds, and the tremor lasting for a max of 10 or 12 secs. But, this one seemed to be never ending lasting for over 2 minutes. "Porumaikku udaranam, Boomi thaai. Adukku thann, en ponnukku Janani-nnu per vechen" aana, ava kovappatta, thaangadunnu annikku thaan unarden.

The employees of the company were visible shattered and were dumb stuck. One by one, they came rushing outside. Within seconds, they started asking every team and modules to assemble in their locations outside the office in the evacuation area. They asked everyone to check if the immediate member sitting next to him is there. Next, they asked them to check for the members in their row. They then asked them to stand in the same order that they sit in the office. And finally, they took a head count. This happenned in seconds and they confirmed that every single member in the whole company which houses more than thousand employees were evacuated with no injuries to anyone.

While they were counting and were checking each other, a massive second quake hit and the building partially collasped. Computers and printers from the 4th floor were falling down. People started calling their families, obviously concerned about their family's well being. But the telephone network was completely jammed and blocked.

My family was in Tokyo, wife and kids were supposed to be back home from school by that time. But, I couldn't check. For over an hour, I was continuously trying. But, couldn't connect. Tried sending SMS, but in vain. And finally realised that the mail in my phone was working. No idea why the GSM was not working, but GPRS was. But, who cares, I sent a mail and she replied immediately. All three of us were safe. I realized the power of technology and the value of investing in an iPhone. I shared the GPS Location, shared pictures, videos etc in seconds. And above all, I could use VOIP application and call India. I called my parents, in laws and my brother about our safety as they will get to know within secs, thanks to the 24X7 TV channels. For the first time, I couldn't call my wife in Tokyo, but was able to talk to my family in India.

The radio in the cellphone was informing us about the earth quake and the areas that were affected. The earthquake occurred at 14:46 local time in the western Pacific Ocean, 130 km east of Sendai, Honshu, Japan. Its epicenter was 373 km from Tokyo. Multiple aftershocks were reported after the initial magnitude 9.0 quake. A magnitude 7.0 aftershock was reported at 15:06 local time, 7.4 at 15:15 local time and 7.2 at 15:26 local time. Over a thousand aftershocks of magnitude 4.5 or greater have occurred since the initial quake. [Ref: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2011_Sendai_earthquake_and_tsunami] More than the total number of shocks that will happen in a decade.

So, I was there wondering what to do next? I had no idea of the scale of damage it had caused. Immediately, there were warnings of Tsunami and everyone was telling not to venture near sea shore or even upstream rivers, as this location was 8 kms from the sea.

I had 5 engineers working in Ibaraki. 2 had fortunately left a week back and there were 3 left. I thought, I should check their homes before I head back to Tokyo. I asked for permission from all the customer heads and took them to their houses. Their houses were ok in the exterior but were totally messed up in the interior. Everything was affected. The shower, mirror, kitchen, bedroom and even the door fell down. Thank god it was not at night and no one was sleeping there, or else, it would have fallen right on their forehead. There was no water, gas electricity. Everything was automatically triggered and was blocked to prevent any further damage due to fire. We thought, it is temperory and everything will resume in a few minutes.

And I told them that, If it is ok, lets go near station, look for a good restaurent, have good food and then, I will leave. It was a long walk for about an hour before we reached Katsuda station, which was a good 7 kms from there. And then only we realised that the trains are not working because they need to check the tracks completely before they resume operations. We tried for any bus or taxi, but none of them were ready, as none of them were sure about the status of roads and the bridges.

On the way to the station we realized that there may not be any restaurents and we tried to get something to eat for dinner in the convenience store. But, they were not working as they need power to use their register. We were desperately searching for one and finally found a small convenience store, they were working. B'cos they were using the age old technology... hand counting and no computers.

That night we spent around 9 to 10 hours on the streets. It was biting cold and the toes and fingers started paining from freezing. I usually like winter a lot for the cool breeze and the serenity it brings. But, that night changed my perception of winter. I understood the kind of winter life a homeless in Japan has. We found a hotel nearby and thought of checking in for the night. But, they were closed as there was no power. But they allowed us to sit in the lobby for the night. They even provided us with a blanket.

It reminded us of the nammalwar, Peyalwar and Boothathaalvar story. The blanket was enough to support one person with full comfort and luzury. With two, they can cover themselves from neck to toe. With three, they can barely manage to it and cover themselves from their hand to knee. We three were sitting and covering ourselves. In a few minutes, "Anda perumale vanda madiri, naalavada oruthan ulla nerukkaraan..." Ippadiyaga, anda irava kazhichom.

The receptionist in the hotel told that usually, there is a bus from Katsuda to Tokyo and the first bus leaves at 5:40 am. So, I didn't want to miss it as I had a class from 8 am in Tokyo on all weekends. I didn't sleep at all and at the stroke of 5:00, I took leave from the 3 guys and left to the bus stop. I waited there for over 2 hours. There was no sign of any bus. I enquired the police station near by and they told me that, the roads were broken, bridges crashed and the broken train tracks and above all the roof of the station itself crashed down last evening. And there is no way, I can leave now. That was when it really dawned on me and I started planning long term. I enquired if there is any evacuation area or any support available. The police man gave me directions for a near by elementary school. I went there.

It was like an oasis in the middle of the desert. There were a lot of people, food was available, water was in plenty and above all, we could use the blanket. I called the 3 guys and was glad that they were still there in the hotel lobby. I asked them to come there immediately. They came there in no time.

There were over more than 300 japanese in the evacuation area. But, there was pin drop silence. People of all age group. kids, youngsters, elders ... But, none of them cried, no traces of pain or fear on their face. Immediately after the quake, the roads were flooded with people and cars. But, you can see the classic Japanese order and compassion there. The signals were not working due to power cut, but none of the automobiles moved. They restrained themselves from taking the "Me first attitude". It was an amazing view. At the junction, all the four sides were flooded with cars, but none of them moved. They requested the other side to take the first turn. This is the kind of next generation, I would love to build. Even if it takes decades together or even a rebirth, I would like to work towards this kind of a society in India.

Similarly at the evacuation center, the new born babies and the young mothers were put to utmost test. With the biting cold in the winter and a few fires to keep yourselves warm, there was nowhere for the young mothers to go secluded to feed their babies. In front of their fellow citizens, they were feeding and what can I say about this society? Words fail and heart takes over. I have never cried in my life, even when my beloved grandparents died. But, this scene pushed me to the brim of my inner strength. It was paining and was crying deep inside me. The country and the people who gave me everything were torn apart and were struggling for their basic needs... Forget about food and water, there was not even a safe warm place to cover themselves and feed their kids.

It was more than 20 hours I had my last meal and was feeling very tired, hungry and thristy. And the sight of the food distribution at the evacuation center was like dream come true. We stood in line and when my turn came, they asked me, which one do you want? They were distributing plain rice and a mixed rice. As I was a vegetarian, I preferred the plain rice, even if there is nothing to mix. But, I was for a surprise, when the rice was ready made dry rice and if we put hot water, it will turn into hot fresh good smelling rice in minutes. But, due to lack of fuel, they had only this rice and cold water. They asked me to open the packet, remove the preservative and put a cup of cold water. Asked me to wait for 2 hours before it turns out to be rice. That was the longest wait for me in front of food. It was mouth watering and was left with no other choice but to wait. And after 2 hours, when I finally ate it, it was the most delicious food I ever tasted in my life. Amritham-na epdi irukkumnu annikku thaan therinjuthu...

Konjam kooda moonjiya sulikkaama, the ward office officials were distributing everything. I requested them for the price to pay. They said, that it is free and were very sorry that, they could only give this at this moment. They were preparing the toilet in the middle of the wonderful clean school ground. Dig a long wide hole and placed a couple of metal sheet to prepare a toilet. Split it into two with a flimsy white sheet and switched on a motor operated lamp. I offered to help them in digging. But they kindly refused and told me, that, we are very sorry for the inconvenience and at this moment, this is the toilet that they could provide.

All these were provided by the city ward office officials. A panchayat equivalent of India. They knew how to handle such calamities and they were prepared for such a massive evacuation and support. There was total order and no one claimed any credit for doing it. Karnan-ma pathi namma padikkarom, aana evvlo per kadaipidikkaromnu ketta theriyaadu. Aana, inga, idathu kai kodukkarathu valathu kaikku nejamaave theriyaadu. Anda madiri, every one did their part.

For example, the workers and owners from the super market brought their foods immediately and gave it to the officials. The officials just distributed it to everyone, with no favor or fear. No influence or bias towards any local or foreigner. The telephone companies especially the NTT, made the public telephone free. Again, you see an order in front of the public booth. Its free and you can use as much as you can. There is a huge line in front of it and people use it only to say hi and their where abouts to their family. Noone took anything more than a minute. What a display of compassion towards other souls.

I have been to this place for over 5 years and have seen a particular old shop closed. But, suddenly, that day, it was open and an elderly lady was distributing some bread to the passers by. The convenience stores were giving their left over food for free. They could have charged a heavy price, but they didn't. There was a huge line for over a km in front of the petrol bunks. They could have charged a heavy price, but they didn't.

The third day after the quake, the city officials in the evacuation center were running out of supplies and were kind of looking out for more thro' each and every source. I realized that, its time we left and allowed the local people to get better care. But, the trains were still not yet ready, bus was not operating. The city official told that, it is going to be atleast a month's time before the trains start operating. So, we had to make our next move.

Also, the nuclear power plant just another 80 kms north of this evacuation center was fuming and this place started getting scary with the kind of information that was coming in. The bridges were damaged and the tracks were broken. So, the options left were to find a taxi that can take us to the location from where trains operate towards Tokyo. But, to get the taxi, we were told to walk to the next station that was some 10 kms away. So, I requested the 3 guys to get their passport and pack few of their dress and get ready to travel. I was planning to take them to my home in Tokyo.

They went ahead to their house to pack. I went in search of a taxi. After a while or walking and losing a few of them, I finally negotiated and got hold of a taxi. He was willing only to take us to a station called tsuchiura. If he travels too far, the risk of he not getting petrol to return back was high. So, He promised us only yo take till tsuchiura. Got on the taxi, went to their house. Picked them up and headed towards Tokyo.

This way, we changed taxi in the same way a couple of times and after 7 hours of travel, we reached a station called Toride, closer to Tokyo. Trains were operating from here. From here, we had another couple of transfers and reached my station Nishi-Kasai. From here, it was another 20 mintes walk and reached home - Sweet home after 10 hours of travel, the longest ever from Ibaraki to tokyo. We reached my home on Sunday night.

By the time I reached tokyo, I was in for a surprise. The roads and pipes in Tokyo were uprooted from the ground and it was the first time I could ever see my place in such a mess. But, on top of this, the nuclear scare had taken a different turn. All my fellow foreigners were planning to mass evacuate and go back to India. In the middle of all, the next morning was bright and sunny. I woke up to the sound of the kids in the near by kinder garnen, next to my home.

In the middle of chaos and foreigners fleeing, the kids displayed hope and the dawn of the next generation Japanese. I was reminded, Hope is the pillar that holds the world. How true, these kids had realized it, when are we going to?

In the whole, exercise, the display of order, process, patience, perseverance, tenacity and compassion was mind blowing. I have lived in this counrty for over a decade and I was all along thinking that, the salient feature of this country was analysis. They go to the root of every problem and always come out with a sustainable solution and was under the impression, that their strength was root cause analysis. But, I was proved wrong. The strength of this country is the patience. Patience at the face of adversity, the patience to undergo pain with a smiling face. If only, we can inculcate this to our next generation, we can be sure of having a sustainable future. Nothing can shatter us as a society / culture.

Best regards,
Murali Manikandan S